The group left for Rome the way many good trips begin: too early at the airport, comfortably fed in the Delta Lounge, and with a sleep strategy that worked almost too well. Richard took trazodone and melatonin early enough that boarding became its own small adventure. Once seated, he disappeared almost immediately, sleeping through the tarmac delay and most of the nine-hour flight.

Rome announced itself with chaos. Passport control was crowded and badly managed, the pickup was not waiting exactly where expected, and the first minutes in Italy were more scramble than postcard. Eventually the Mercedes van appeared, the ride smoothed out, and the trip found its footing.

By afternoon, Rome was already doing what Rome does. There were excellent sandwiches near the hotel, eaten in a piazza, and then Colin and Leslie arrived with the glow of people who had just gotten engaged two days earlier. The first dinner was at Tartufi & Friends — more touristy than treasured — but the night still worked: truffles, piazzas, gelato, and the feeling of having finally made it.